|

Venturing inland from the Skeleton Coast, the bleak, foggy and
desolate landscape along the seaboard soon gives way to new biomes.
The coastal plains incline towards the desert mountains before the
ground levels out onto Namibia’s central plateaus. Damaraland lies
to the east of the Skeleton Coast, occupying the transitional zone
between coast and inland plateau. Above this is the region of Kaokoland.
These are the lands of the resilient Himba and Damara tribes and
home to a clutch of familiar African species, who seem to have defied
all odds and adapted to survive the inconceivably tough conditions.
Damaraland
The name of this region comes from the Damara people who live here
and constitute a large share of its very low population. The region
is also home to a variety of game including zebra, giraffe, antelope,
elephant and black rhino.
Damaraland is famous for its numerous, intriguing natural landmarks
such as the Petrified Forest, the volcanic Burnt Mountain and the
basalt Organ Pipes, a peculiar geological feature comprising numerous
12 ft high dolerite columns. Damaraland incorporates the Brandberg,
Twyfelfontein and Spitzkoppe and is also renowned for its incredible
prehistoric rock paintings and engravings.
Twyfelfontein, Spitzkoppe and the Brandberg
Twyfelfontein
This area boasts one of the most extensive collections of rock
art in Africa with over 2,500 examples scattered around the local
area. The engravings are about 6,000 years old and were most likely
made by San hunters during the Early Stone Age. The images (which
are dominated by animals and animal tracks) were created by cutting
into the soft stratum that coats the local sandstone. When the rocks
subsequently eroded, this stratum was regenerated, hence covering
the original engravings and preserving them for thousands of years.
Not far from Twyfelfontein is a distinctive, volcanic ridge and
the unusual Burnt Mountain, which looks exactly as its name suggests
– as if someone has set fire to a mountain and all that is left
is a pile of ashes and clinker.
The Spitzkoppe
One of Namibia’s most distinguishing landmarks, the Spitzkoppe
is a giant, 1728m high granite outcrop that rises abruptly from
the arid Namibian plains that surround it. The Spitzkoppe (meaning
‘sharp head’) is the remains of an ancient volcano and contrary
to its appearance it is very difficult to reach the summit. However,
boulder hopping across its lower reaches is definitely manageable,
although this should be approached with caution in the summer months
as the rocks become painfully hot!
The Brandberg
Brandberg means ‘fire mountain’ and it is so called because of
the effect of the setting sun on its western face. At 8,550 feet,
its summit is Namibia’s highest peak. Here you will find the Tsisab
and Numas ravines, both displaying a multitude of weird and wonderful
rock paintings.
Kaokoland
Here, the conditions are even harsher than in Damaraland - and
the ability of certain animals to survive the intensely arid conditions
is even more startling. There are gemsbok, kudu, springbok, ostrich,
giraffe, mountain zebra and small numbers of rhino. But the most
astonishing inhabitant of this inhospitable region must surely be
the desert elephant. Kaokoland is extremely remote and, once you
leave the Sesfontein-Opuwo tourist route, there is virtually no
traffic. There are a few scattered villages but they have absolutely
no services whatsoever. Heading off into this region as an independent
traveller is without a doubt the reserve of the intrepid!
Photographs by Dana Allen and Michael Poliza
with kind permission of Wilderness Safaris
|